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  1. [Category:Articles](/Category:Articles "wikilink")
  2. [right\|thumb\|320px\|A Bicycle](/Image:rockhopper.jpg "wikilink")
  3. ## Buying a bike
  4. This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles.
  5. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman
  6. `Sender: cambo@murphy.internal`\
  7. `Reply-To: cambo`\
  8. `Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.`\
  9. `I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.`\
  10. `Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?`
  11. People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in
  12. town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other
  13. places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in
  14. Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Duff Cycles
  15. [1](http://www.duffcycles.com/) in the Omni Park Shopping Center have
  16. always been pleasant, a few members have bought bikes there. Other might
  17. add more here.
  18. Online shops are <http://www.chainreactioncycles.com> and
  19. <http://www.evanscycles.com/>
  20. When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain
  21. bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or \'Racers\' are what ya see in the Tour
  22. de France. They go fast. You won\'t be reading this if you are looking
  23. to buy a roadbike.
  24. Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes,
  25. flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain
  26. bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear
  27. suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.
  28. Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above
  29. types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the
  30. bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at
  31. least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town
  32. as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with
  33. no suspension.
  34. Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front
  35. suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5\") I prefer to have a bit of
  36. suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it\'s
  37. necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension
  38. detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force
  39. applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, \'Well feck that, I
  40. won\'t be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable\' but
  41. after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to
  42. look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can
  43. buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added
  44. weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result
  45. in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is
  46. why I stick with the mountain bike and don\'t get a hybrid)
  47. Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels
  48. and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk
  49. getting in and causing problems.
  50. Basically, ask the sales guy:
  51. \"What\'s most likely to break first?\" and \"How much will it cost to
  52. fix?\"
  53. He\'ll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few
  54. weeks on the road. Reply \"yes, obviously, but apart from that \...?\"
  55. :) Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said
  56. cables) for free.
  57. See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting
  58. destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.
  59. ### Insurance
  60. Most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover
  61. should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add
  62. the bike to the policy and pay more.
  63. If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called <http://www.123.ie> will
  64. insure the house contents and your bicycle.
  65. CyclingIreland provide bicycle insurance through <http://cyclesure.ie/>
  66. which covers theft, accidents and more.
  67. ## Accessories
  68. ### Bells
  69. Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can
  70. be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn\'t rely on a person getting
  71. out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always
  72. be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians,
  73. don\'t worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your
  74. ire by ringing your bell furiously.
  75. An alternative to a bell is an air horn. These could be of more use than
  76. a bell as they are so loud. To be used only in an emergency though.
  77. ### Lights & Reflectors
  78. There are several requirements under law concerning lights & reflectors.
  79. Legal requirements are:
  80. * You are required at all times to have a rear reflector
  81. * From \"_half an hour after sunset and ending half an hour before
  82. sunrise on the following morning_\" you must have a front and rear
  83. lamp. Flashing lights are actually not legal.
  84. <http://www.citizensinformation.ie/categories/travel-and-recreation/vehicle-standards/lighting_of_bicycles_in_ireland>
  85. Broadly speaking, there are two types of bicycle lights. Those that
  86. allow you to see and those that allow you to be seen. For commuting
  87. through the city center, ones that allow you to be seen are usually
  88. enough. These are typically LED lights, running off AA or AAA batteries,
  89. usually with a flashing option. The other type of lights are for use on
  90. dark roads with no street lighting. These type of lights can be
  91. extremely expensive, come with their own powerpack. They are usually
  92. halogen, but increasingly more powerful LEDS are also being used.
  93. The best approach is to have a set of lights on the bike which are
  94. non-flashing. Then, on your person/bag, put smaller flashing lights.
  95. These can help if you come off your bike at night. Non-flashing lights
  96. make it easier for drivers to gauge your speed/distance.
  97. The best low range rear bicycle light is the Planet Bike Super Flash.
  98. <http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3034.html>
  99. There are a range of decent front lights. The one I recommend for
  100. serious visibility on a budget is a Fenix L2D.
  101. <http://fenix-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=195> This is
  102. actually a handheld torch, but with twofish lockblocks
  103. <https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_66&products_id=273>
  104. can be attached to a bicycle. This torch allows you to see on pitch
  105. black roads and be seen going through the city center. Get rechargable
  106. AA batteries, at least 2700mah.
  107. There are alternative ones, as bright, available at dealextreme.
  108. Anything that uses a Cree LED is going to be bright.
  109. <http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7938> I haven\'t used these,
  110. so don\'t know how good they are. Substantially cheaper than the Fenix
  111. though.
  112. For flashing lights, I found these lights bought them off ebay. It\'s a
  113. LED Band. It\'s not one of the green reflective strips with 4 dim red
  114. leds in it. They are quite bright, glowing reasonably well for the whole
  115. length of the band.
  116. [Image:Twinkle_amber_on.JPG](/Image:Twinkle_amber_on.JPG "wikilink")
  117. A number of people seem to make them, Nite-Ize, Polybrite and a korean
  118. crowd do knocks off called Twinkler.
  119. I bought the Twinkler version off ebay from here
  120. <http://stores.ebay.com/CycleJerseys-UK>
  121. The delivery price ain\'t fantastic, but at least it\'s quick. I bought
  122. an Amber one and a white one. The picture on the website is misleading
  123. for the white one though, it\'s actually multicoloured, Red, Green, Blue
  124. lights. Looks a bit odd, but highly visible.
  125. I put the amber one on my ankle, it\'s easily spotted when cycling
  126. along. The other one goes on my arm. I found an american place on ebay
  127. selling the Nite-Ize ones a bit cheaper
  128. <http://stores.ebay.com/Lights-and-Holsters-Plus>
  129. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. If you\'re around DCU, head into
  130. Heitons up in Santry, a builders store with cheaper jackets.
  131. ### In the rain
  132. Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers. Waterproof boots help
  133. too.
  134. You\'ll heat up in no time once you get going, so don\'t smother
  135. yourself with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use
  136. padded ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold
  137. rain. Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you
  138. skid off on wet, icy roads.
  139. Basically, as long as you\'re wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no
  140. hassle. Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will
  141. be wet. And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from
  142. under you :)
  143. Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho)
  144. out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet.
  145. I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in
  146. em that I get just as wet as if I\'d been rained on. Decent waterproof
  147. trousers may prevent this.
  148. ### Helmets
  149. There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I
  150. won\'t get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your
  151. life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned
  152. at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety
  153. regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable
  154. on your noggin.
  155. ### Pump and spare tubes
  156. You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a
  157. puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these
  158. are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump.
  159. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair
  160. kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to
  161. just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at
  162. home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures
  163. <http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html>
  164. An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very
  165. high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are
  166. also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the
  167. side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.
  168. ### Keeping your bicycle
  169. [right\|thumb\|320px\|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock,
  170. with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object.
  171. Saddle removed.](/Image:locked_bike.jpg "wikilink")
  172. When Gavin replied to Kevin\'s post about getting a good bike lock he
  173. has helped loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here\'s the origional post
  174. as posted on redbrick.help
  175. `From: Gavin`\
  176. `Newsgroups: redbrick.help`\
  177. `Subject: Re: Bike Locks`\
  178. `Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)`\
  179. \
  180. `On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:`\
  181. `> Hey,`\
  182. `>`\
  183. `> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?`\
  184. `>`\
  185. `> - Kevin`
  186. I did a _lot_ of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at
  187. <http://www.sheldonbrown.com>. He has lots of cycling articles and a
  188. good one on bicycle locks.
  189. The end points were :
  190. 1. Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an
  191. easier target.
  192. 2. Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate
  193. pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock.
  194. More on this.
  195. 3. If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the
  196. back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear
  197. triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in
  198. the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the
  199. wheel with you doesn\'t increase your security.
  200. 4. Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release
  201. bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and
  202. chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.
  203. 5. Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret
  204. location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief
  205. can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying
  206. about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.
  207. That\'s most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather
  208. [large Abus Granit lock and
  209. chain](http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338) for 90 euro.
  210. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a
  211. reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in,
  212. they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a
  213. locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something
  214. like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to get through
  215. it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to
  216. be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.
  217. My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock,
  218. make sure it doesn\'t have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks !
  219. The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat
  220. key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.
  221. If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location..
  222. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it\'s too heavy to be
  223. carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also,
  224. never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open
  225. to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about
  226. the frame and the \'immovable object\'.
  227. There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.
  228. <http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm> There is a very good youtube
  229. video showing that in fact the SoldSecure ratings are not as accurate as
  230. they claim to be. <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC3hFr8p2ck> The
  231. second lock shown is the one mentioned above, that I bought from the
  232. Great Outdoors.
  233. Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay,
  234. and are better value than from cycling shops.
  235. That\'s around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock &
  236. don\'t ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.
  237. ## Good cycle practices
  238. [right\|thumb\|320px\|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with
  239. nothing to lose](/Image:wheelie.jpg "wikilink")
  240. People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and
  241. what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban
  242. locations, a google will find em.
  243. ### Road Positioning
  244. Cyclists are not required to cycle near the kerb. This is a myth,
  245. perpetuated by society in general in order to keep motorised traffic
  246. moving as quickly as possible.
  247. The rules of the road state \"keep to the left\", but this rule applies
  248. to motorised traffic as well; it means that all vehicles must stay as
  249. close to the left of the road **as is safe to do so**. Cycling to the
  250. left of the lane **can** be safe if the lane is wide enough to
  251. accommodate you and passing vehicles with sufficient space in between.
  252. However, in most cases, lanes are only designed to be for one vehicle.
  253. Kerb \<- 1m -\> Cyclist \<- 1.5m -\> Motor Vehicle
  254. When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are
  255. occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is
  256. particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely
  257. overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not
  258. attempt it. If you are over beside kerb, they might.
  259. Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close,
  260. give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.
  261. If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane
  262. of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn.
  263. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I
  264. find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are
  265. nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it
  266. easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for
  267. cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a
  268. front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see
  269. you)
  270. Trucks and HGVs are the primary killer of cyclists. The classic
  271. situation seems to be where a cyclist goes up the inside of a truck
  272. turning left. The driver can\'t see the cyclist and the cyclist is
  273. crushed. This site,
  274. <http://www.movingtargetzine.com/forum/discussion/598/hgv-blind-spots-from-nozzer/>,
  275. has an excellent description of blind spots and how to cycle around/near
  276. trucks.
  277. Never trust motorists not to kill you. It is your responsibility to be
  278. assertive in order to keep them at bay.
  279. ### Cycle Lanes
  280. You are no longer legally required to use any form of cycle lane or
  281. cycle infrastructure. Thus, it is up to you whether to use them or not,
  282. depending on your skill or experience. In many cases, it is safer to
  283. ignore them.
  284. A mandatory cycle lane (solid white border) means that motorised traffic
  285. cannot drive or park in the lane. It does not mean that cyclists must
  286. use it.
  287. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and
  288. cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at
  289. <http://www.geocities.ws/cyclopath2001/legal.htm>
  290. ### Braking
  291. As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes,
  292. especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites
  293. I\'ve read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes.
  294. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over
  295. heels, don\'t jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling
  296. particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat,
  297. moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you
  298. flying forward.
  299. Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is
  300. remarkably scary.
  301. Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound
  302. from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might
  303. have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel
  304. rim to pieces.
  305. ### Traffic Lights
  306. Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where
  307. it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can
  308. sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead
  309. of the waiting cars.
  310. In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through
  311. pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey
  312. all lights. A number of traffic light junctions (in Dublin anyway) now
  313. have cyclist zones in front of the traffic that lets you be in front of
  314. where cars are (supposed to) stop, these let you legally be ahead of the
  315. traffic.
  316. ### Wheelies
  317. Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of
  318. people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must
  319. practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To
  320. capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a
  321. friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie,
  322. record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good
  323. cycle practise.
  324. ## Routes
  325. Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer
  326. by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around
  327. Dublin in general is available at
  328. <http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html> created by and copyright
  329. of Robert Fitzsimons.
  330. Another good link is <http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/> Its very handy for
  331. route planning and figuring out your distances in advance. Yahoo Maps
  332. now has updated maps of dublin, and it\'s route planner can do a similar
  333. service.
  334. If you\'re into leisure or training in dublin, this guy has a great
  335. collection of routes in and around Dublin on his
  336. [<http://www.routeslip.com/user/dickobrien> RouteSlip
  337. page](/http://www.routeslip.com/user/dickobrien_RouteSlip_page "wikilink").
  338. There is also the more general page at
  339. [<http://www.routeslip.com/discover/Ireland/Dublin> RouteSlip
  340. Dublin](/http://www.routeslip.com/discover/Ireland/Dublin_RouteSlip_Dublin "wikilink")
  341. ### DCU into the City Center (O\'Connell Street)
  342. * Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road.
  343. * At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight
  344. on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand
  345. lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you
  346. will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.
  347. * Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane,
  348. keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don\'t turn to the left
  349. sometimes and can surprise you.
  350. * Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the
  351. bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.
  352. * Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra
  353. road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough
  354. room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.
  355. * Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you
  356. saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans
  357. and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green
  358. man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars
  359. * When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the
  360. public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath
  361. facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and
  362. back onto the main road.
  363. * Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move
  364. out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you
  365. don\'t get squashed.
  366. * Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O\'
  367. Connell St.
  368. * Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle.
  369. <http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587>
  370. ### Dundrum to DCU
  371. For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is
  372. Dundrum -\> Clonskeagh -\> Ranelagh -\> Canal -\> Camden St -\> Georges
  373. St -\> Dame St -\> Westmoreland St -\> O Connell St -\> Parnell St -\>
  374. Nt Gt Neorges St -\> MountJoy Square -\> Belvedere Rd -\> Dorset St -\>
  375. Drumcondra -\> Collins Avenue -\> DCU From Dundrum to Dame St and from
  376. Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.
  377. <http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481>
  378. ### City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire
  379. Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and
  380. follow road round to the right. Take the left before \"the big red pub\"
  381. onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand
  382. road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates,
  383. theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park
  384. on the left\... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the
  385. park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the
  386. back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the
  387. town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast
  388. road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.
  389. ### Rathfarnham to City Centre
  390. This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy
  391. traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I\'ll update as I
  392. get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up
  393. into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards
  394. Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I\'ve never had any
  395. trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church.
  396. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights
  397. and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach
  398. the shops. About halfway along the shops, there\'s a right hand turn. Go
  399. down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go
  400. around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At
  401. the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you
  402. reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring
  403. you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head
  404. out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there\'s a right turn onto
  405. Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth
  406. Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper.
  407. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.
  408. ## Links
  409. ### College Club
  410. <http://cycling.redbrick.dcu.ie>
  411. The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the
  412. [Cycling](http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410) forum
  413. on <http://www.boards.ie>
  414. ### Shops
  415. <http://www.chainreactioncycles.com> - Northern Ireland, free delivery ,
  416. decent enough.
  417. <http://ontrackdublin.com/> - Fixed gear and track specialists, Cook St.
  418. <http://www.evanscycles.com> - UK
  419. <http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie> - Ireland
  420. <http://www.cycleways.com> - Ireland
  421. ### News & General
  422. <http://www.irishcycling.com> -Irish news
  423. <http://www.cyclingnews.com> - World News
  424. ### Bike Reviews
  425. <http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/> - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed
  426. ### D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips
  427. <http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml>
  428. <http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/>
  429. <http://www.sheldonbrown.com> - Plenty of good advice on this site.
  430. Ignore the dodgy design and scary photos.
  431. ### Groups & Activists
  432. <http://www.MTBIreland.com> - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.
  433. <http://www.dublincycling.org>
  434. <http://home.connect.ie/dcc/> - Dublin Cycling Campaign
  435. <http://www.madmtb.com> - Mountain Biking Association of Dublin, based
  436. in Rathfarnham